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  • Gangnam Restaurant Opening Story – Demolition Process-1

    12 years ago, I was working on the interior of ‘Vicel Restaurant‘ with my older brother. During the restaurant’s opening phase, my brother’s first child was born. I watched his gaze grow bolder, and his decision-making became sharp and swift. Looking back, I think that was the reason he took on debt—money he didn’t even have at the time—to make the opening happen.

    A Call from New Zealand to Korea

    While we were painting the exterior walls of Vitchel, I was nearing the end of my Working Holiday in New Zealand. I had saved up money and was preparing for my final trip before heading back to university. Then, I got a call from my brother.

    “Brother, let’s defer your return to school by just one semester.”

    At the time, my brother’s plan to start a restaurant seemed a bit reckless. But now, as a father myself, I’ve come to realise that it was the cold, calculated decision of a breadwinner shouldering the weight of life.

    From a Storage Room to “Capanno Burger”

    The small 20-square-meter (6-pyeong) Vicel Restaurant in Gangnam Irwon-dong was a 100% DIY project from start to finish. The original space for what would become Grotta Gigante was actually Capanno Burger(Italian style gourmet burger restaurant). It was located in the basement of the same building as Vicel. We had been using it as a storage space before deciding to expand the business. This was 8 years ago today, in February 2018.

    The Workflow:

    1. Detaching fixtures and equipment from walls and ceilings.
    2. Wall demolition.
    3. Ceiling demolition.
    4. Bagging the debris.
    5. Sorting for waste loading.

    The Demolistion Process

    Based on our experience with Vitchel, we tackled the basement unit as a DIY project as well. Judging by its first appearance, it seemed to have been an old pub.

    The ceiling was built with timber framing and 3T plywood, while the walls were finished with wooden studs and plasterboard. Clunky brown moldings, checkered deco-tiles, rough putty finishes, and both circular and square recessed ceilings existing at the same time… It was a typical 90s pub interior, though it looked like they had spent a fair bit of money on it back in the day.

    Wall Demolition

    An interesting thing happened: the space right next door was a church. When we tore down the wall, we “excavated” a paper mosaic of Jesus made by the Sunday School children, hidden like a mural. The glue was stubborn and hard to peel off, but I remember feeling a bit conflicted and heavy-hearted while removing the face of Jesus.

    To remove the plasterboard, we first cleared away all the small electrical and ventilation fixtures. For this, a power drill, a screwdriver, and a ladder are all you need. Then, we moved on to the walls. A large crowbar (pry bar) was more than enough. Once the walls were down, we broke the debris into smaller pieces and packed them into waste bags.

    Ceiling Demolition

    Now for the main event: the ceiling. It’s the “main” part because it’s dangerous. The timber framing for the recessed ceiling was very heavy, so we worked with extreme caution.

    We stripped off everything we could beforehand. Then, we systematically removed the 64-gauge finish nails from the timber studs fixed to the ceiling. This was so that when we gave it a final pull, the structure would collapse while the worker had enough time to jump back out of the way.


    Lessons in the Dust

    Bagging all the debris is no easy task. Since it was a basement, the dust had nowhere to go, so I made sure to wear a high-quality respirator mask.

    As I tore down the kitchen partition, the tiles came off in heaps. However, the tiles fixed directly to the concrete walls were nearly impossible to budge. I left those for later, cleaned the floor, and filled the bags.

    When you engage in repetitive manual labour, you often fall into deep philosophical thoughts. Watching materials fall away so easily during demolition felt strange. It made me think: we are supposed to build the house of our lives upon a rock, yet aren’t we often building on sand, watching it crumble, and rebuilding again and again? But those tiles stuck to the concrete? They wouldn’t move. I found myself hoping that the “house” of our lives would stand on a foundation as stubborn and strong as that concrete. Later, I had to use grinders and various drills to noisily force those tiles off.


    Wrapping Up

    I cleared out the utilities coming into the space—water pipes, sewage lines, HVAC, and even the boiler flue. Since these would change depending on the new layout, I only focused on disconnecting them for demolition.

    To save on costs for the waste truck the next day, I pre-sorted everything. Waste companies charge less if things are grouped together. You can even get money back for wires or scrap metal if you take them to a scrapyard. I sorted them into: Scrap Metal, Bags (plasterboard/small waste), and Timber.

    I finished the day’s prep for tomorrow’s loading and headed home. While my brother was running Vitchel during the day, I worked alone, and he would join me after his shift. It was 11 PM. Tomorrow’s schedule: loading the waste and soaking the floor to remove the deco-tiles.

    Looking back, we really had some guts. I remember my brother and I saying many times after this, “From now on, let’s only move into empty shells.” Still, it’s a fond memory full of dreams and anticipation.

  • 몽키스패너 종류와 사용법, 그리고 작업별 활용법 총정리


    “몽키스패너의 종류, 사용하는 방법, 주의사항, 그리고 어떤 작업에 적합한지까지 정리한 완벽 가이드. 셀프인테리어·DIY 초보도 이해하기 쉬운 실전 정보.”

    몽키스패너란 무엇인가

    몽키스패너(Adjustable Wrench)는 조절 가능한 입(조)을 사용해 다양한 크기의 너트와 볼트를 잠그거나 풀 수 있는 기본 공구다.
    셀프인테리어, 배관 정비, 가구 조립 등 폭넓게 사용되며, 공구 중에서도 활용도가 매우 높다.

    정해진 규격만 맞는 일반 스패너와 달리, 입 너비를 자유롭게 조절할 수 있다는 것이 가장 큰 장점이다.


    몽키스패너의 주요 종류

    1. 표준형 몽키스패너

    가장 기본적이고 범용적인 모델.
    가정용·DIY 작업에서 가장 널리 사용된다.

    • 특징: 조절폭 넓음, 일반 너트 작업에 적합
    • 활용: 가구 조립, 배관 연결, 일반 수리 작업

    2. 롱노즈(롱조) 몽키스패너

    입이 길고 얇게 설계된 형태.

    • 특징: 좁은 틈, 깊은 곳 접근 가능
    • 활용: 세면대 밑·싱크대 안·배관 깊숙한 연결부

    3. 와이드몽키(와이드 조절형)

    입 벌어짐이 매우 큰 타입.

    • 특징: 대형 너트·배관용
    • 활용: 배관 작업, 중장비 정비, 샤워수전·싱크수전 교체

    4. 라쳇 몽키스패너

    라쳇 기능을 추가해 반복 회전 작업이 빠름.

    • 특징: 회전 편의성 최고, 작업 속도 향상
    • 활용: 볼트 여러 개를 연속으로 잠그는 작업

    5. 절연(전기용) 몽키스패너

    전기 작업용으로 절연 처리가 된 제품.

    • 특징: 감전 방지, 내구성 강화
    • 활용: 전기 배선함·분전함·전기설비 정비

    몽키스패너 사용법 (초보용)

    1. 입 너비 조절하기

    공구 아래쪽의 조절 휠(나사)을 돌려 너트 크기에 맞춘다.
    너무 크게 벌리면 헛돌고, 너무 타이트하면 조가 손상된다.

    2. 너트에 정확히 밀착시키기

    입이 너트 면 전체에 완전히 밀착되도록 맞춘다.
    공구가 비틀리면 너트 모서리(P면)가 손상될 수 있다.

    3. 힘을 주는 방향

    몽키스패너는 고정 조(힘 받는 면)에 힘이 가도록 사용하는 것이 기본이다.
    잘못된 방향으로 힘을 주면 조가 벌어지고 헛돌 확률이 높아진다.

    4. 회전할 때 천천히

    급하게 돌리면

    • 손 미끄럼
    • 너트 둥글게 마모
    • 조절나사 풀림
      이 발생할 수 있다.

    몽키스패너가 필요한 작업 예시

    1. 배관 수리

    • 욕실·싱크대 수전 교체
    • 세면대 밑 배관 조이기
    • 누수 잡기
      → 와이드 몽키·롱노즈 몽키 활용

    2. 셀프 인테리어 및 가구 조립

    • 조립식 가구 볼트 조임
    • 철제 선반 연결부 조임
    • 장식장·행거 볼트 점검
      → 표준 몽키스패너로 충분

    3. DIY 작업

    • 스탠드 조립
    • 자전거 볼트 조절
    • 철제 가구 수리
      → 라쳇 몽키 사용하면 속도 향상

    4. 전기 작업

    → 반드시 절연 몽키스패너 사용

    • 분전함 볼트 조임
    • 전기 설비 고정 작업

    몽키스패너 선택 시 체크리스트

    • 최대 입 벌어짐(조절 폭)
    • 공구의 길이(지렛대 효과)
    • 체결 강도(강도 표시, 소재 확인)
    • 미끄럼 방지 손잡이 여부
    • 해드(조 부분) 유격 최소화 여부

    싸다고 구매했다가
    입이 벌어지거나 너트가 손상되는 경우가 많다.
    최소한 유격이 없고 조절이 부드러운 제품을 선택하라.


    자주 하는 실수와 주의사항

    • 너트 크기보다 크게 벌려놓고 사용 → 헛돌고 손상
    • 반대 방향으로 힘 줌 → 조 벌어짐
    • 오일·물 묻은 손으로 작업 → 미끄러움 위험
    • 배관 작업에 표준형 사용 → 공간 협소해 작업 어려움

    작업 특성에 맞는 올바른 종류 선택이 훨씬 중요하다.


    결론: 셀프 인테리어의 필수 공구, 몽키스패너

    몽키스패너는

    • 집수리
    • 배관
    • 조립
    • DIY
      모든 상황에서 가장 많이 사용되는 기본 공구다.

    종류를 이해하고 올바르게 사용하면
    작업 속도와 완성도가 눈에 띄게 달라진다.

    셀프인테리어를 계획한다면
    몽키스패너 하나는 반드시 갖춰라.


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